I have just purchased the whole set of Katana knives plus a few extra to fill the block. My question is, how the heck do you use that steel properly to keep them as sharp as they were out of the box? Is that even possible? I have ran several of them on the steel at the recomended 22 degrees and it seems to change the edge. Don’t get me wrong, they are still very sharp, but they don’t pop hairs off my arm as they did right out of the box.

Great question Kirk, and I’ve got a rather complex answer for you. As far as sharpening the Katana knives – or any other knife for that matter – you need to know that, just like everything else on Earth, there are varying degrees of cost associated with higher levels of performance. So, I’m going to give you a ton of information here, and you can then make a decision as to which way to go based on your budget and willingness to put in some elbow grease.

First we’re going to start out with a quick video from Alton Brown. He kicks ass. This video is going to go over some of the basics, but then I’m going to point out a few things I’d disagree with slightly.

• Alton doesn’t recommend sharpening a knife at home, but I’d say that you can do that if you’re willing to pay the piper. Read on to get the details.
• Did you see Alton run his finger over the edge of the blade? DON’T EVER, EVER DO THAT! If you did that with one of my blades you might need stitches.
• “Price is not important.” Um, I highly disagree. A cheap knife simply won’t hold an edge. You need a decent piece of steel to make it even worth sharpening.

Now, we also saw the use of a belt grinder and a buffing machine in the video – but they are not at all necessary to achieve a razor sharp edge. In fact, those tools remove a lot of metal very quickly, so it’s better (especially for amateurs) to use a slower more precise process.

The cheapest process (generally speaking) involves the use of a sharpening stone. Here, Seth from Cosmo Knives demonstrates the technique. In order to do this at home you’ll need a bench stone and a strop.

This is something that everyone can easily learn to do at home and see fairly good results quite quickly. It’ll make cutting meats and veggies with that old knife a joy again.

Now, if you’d like to avoid all of that manual labor altogether, I highly recommend the Warthog V-Sharp sharpener for under $100. I have one of these in my kitchen and I use it constantly on my high end Calphalon Katana knives. Here is how it works, and boy does it work… (Here is a complete review on BladeForums.com.)

Finally, when absolutely only the finest piece of equipment will do, the best sharpening system in the world is the Edge Pro. You can pick up the Apex model for under $200, and it is a great kit (I started out with one of these), but for the finest sharpening system money can buy you’re gonna want the Professional model (my personal tool of choice). It’ll run you about $500 complete with all the options.

Now, when I sit down to really sharpen a blade with my Edge Pro it will take me about half an hour. I take my time and do it right, but by the time I’m done I can slice through leather like it was butter. The Edge Pro is manufactured by Ben Dale, one of the nicest guys you’ll ever care to know, and a man you can trust to deliver an unmatched quality instrument. He makes every Pro model by hand, and even personalized mine especially for me.

Here is the training video that demonstrates how to use this unique tool. It takes a little practice, but after about 30 minutes I was an old pro. I’ve used it a hundred times and my friends and family, for whom I’ve sharpened blades, brag about the results to everyone they know.

One last little detail. People in these various videos keep mentioning different angles to sharpen at. First of all, the only systems here that have precision with these settings are the Warthog and EdgePro; however, for the sake of getting the correct info out there, here is what Ben recommends – and I completely concur.

• 13 ° – Very thin flexible knives. Roast slicers, fish fillet blades, etc.
• 15 ° – Thin kitchen knives. Lowest you can use with a cutting board – extremely sharp.
• 17 ° – Most medium duty kitchen knives.
• 19 ° – Thin pocket knives and heavy duty kitchen knives.
• 21 ° – Pocket and thin hunting knives.
• 23 ° – Hunting, chopping and thick pocket knives.
• 25 ° – Very thick blades such as cleavers.

If all of that information still leaves you wanting more, hop on over and read this Sharpening FAQ and it will leave no stone unturned for you.

As always, if you have questions just let me know and I’ll handle them in the comments.

None Found

Before we get started let me just say that there are a lot of different factors that go into the selection of a good set of knives, and if done properly there is no reason that a high quality kitchen knife can’t be put to service for 20 years or more.

Some of the factors that influenced my recommendations include steel composition, durability, “feel” or balance, aesthetics, and sanitary considerations.

I should note that I am focusing on sets of knives here because a matched set is always best. They’ll all fit in the same block together, they require similar care, they’ll have similar balance and feel, and they look best this way. I highly recommend purchasing a matched set and using the right knife for each particular job.

For the Extremely Cost Conscious

I’m sorry to report, but there is no set of knives that I can recommend below about $150. The main reason is that in order to make a good knife you have to start with high quality steel, then go through extremely high quality processes and frankly this is all quite expensive. The fact that we can purchase cheap knives today is amazing considering that just a couple hundred years ago it would have cost a pretty penny due to all the manual labor and specialized knowledge required of a Bladesmith.

So, if you’re on a tight budget the best option is to just get one or two knives at the moment then save up to purchase a block set. Here are the top three knives I recommend if I was only going to own one really good knife:

1. Calphalon Katana Stainless-Steel 6-Inch Utility Knife ($60) – Although not ideal for all tasks, a 6″ utility knife would slice meat, dice veggies or help debone and skin a chicken.
2. Calphalon Katana Stainless-Steel 7-Inch Santoku Knife ($80) – If I was slicing lots of beef or tomatoes or things that generally tend to stick to a blade, I’d choose a Santoku because the grooves on the side help the blade slide through. However, anything below a 7″ Santoku is just not going to be functional.
3. Henckels Professional “S” 6″ Utility Knife ($70) – Again, this is the competitor for the Calphalon utility knife. If you prefer something more stain resistant this would be the choice (read below to see what I mean).

For the Average Household

Actually, I’m assuming that if you’re reading this you’re a little more selective than the “average consumer”, but I digress. A good “value” set of knives is the Henckels 10-piece Forged Set from had at Costco for $188. I’m 90% certain this set is assembled from the TWIN Gourmet series of knives.

Features of the Henckels 10 piece set:

1. 9 German forged blades plus a block for about $20 each. That’s a good value.
2. Hygenic construction.
3. Decent steel holds an OK edge. It’s easy to sharpen, and you’ll want to do it fairly often.
4. Costco’s excellent return policy.

Drawbacks of the Henckels 10 piece set:

1. No steak knives.
2. A little “cheap” feeling compared to the ones that follow (still way better than less expensive sets).
3. Don’t particularly care of the “balance”.
4. Handles a little too narrow for larger hands.
5. “Dishwasher safe” though not recommended.

For the Enthusiast

I personally own, and love, the entire Calphalon Katana 8-Piece Knife Set with Block (I’ve got all the other pieces too, not just this set). For the money I think this represents the best value of any commercially available set – currently $220.79 for the 8 piece set (6 knives plus 1 block and 1 steel)!

The Katana series has the following benefits:

1. In my opinion it is the second most beautiful set here (behind the William Henry for 10x the price).
2. The core VG Steel in this blade is about the hardest you can get, so it will retain an edge longer than any other blade here.
3. They come from Calphalon with a fantastically sharp edge straight out of the box. Be very careful with these blades!
4. There are no rivets, pores or openings on these knives for bacteria to collect in. This keep them sanitary.
5. They feel good in my rather large hands (I’m 6’1″) yet my wife (she’s > 5′) has indicated that they work for her as well.
6. Here is a little more info from Calphalon

The Katana series has the following drawbacks:

1. Although the steel is very hard, high carbon stainless is “stain resistant” not rust proof. This means it will rust if left in water for say 1 hour. These knives need to be cleaned and put away immediately after use. Don’t leave them laying in the sink!
2. Because the blades are so hard the edge could chip if abused. You need to choose a thick blade for heavy work like chicken bones. Of course, this is the same thing I’d say about any high quality knife.
3. They do not offer matching steak knives.

This set is available from Amazon.com
.

For the Professional Chef

If I had to rely on a set of knives for my profession I’d choose the Henckels Pro “S” knives, available at Amazon.com for $559.00.

You can see a great video on how these knives are produced on the Henckel Web site. Also, you may wish to peruse their other videos that cover things like use, safety and tips.
The Pro S Series has the following features:

1. A huge selection of blade types will satisfy virtually any kitchen need.
2. A good steel blend that holds an edge reasonably well and hones and sharpens quickly.
3. No fears of potential rust if it remains perpetually wet (within reason).
4. Sanitary and well sealed handles and construction.
5. Reasonably non-slip handles.
6. German quality and consistency.
7. You aren’t going to cry if one walks off in a busy kitchen.

The Pro S Series has the following drawbacks:

1. You’re not going to “wow” your fellow chefs.
2. Fairly sharp out of the box, but need a little work before they could match the Calphalon Katanas.
3. They feel a bit cold and soulless to me.
4. Personally I’d still take the Katanas and just baby them as I worked.

If Price is of Little Concern

Without a doubt the finest commercially available set of cutlery (if you can find one) is the William Henry Maestro Collection – $3,000 for 5 piece set:

A name befitting its stature “the Maestro Collection from William Henry. Called ‘the finest cutlery ever produced,’ this collection offers superb performance, timeless elegance, and a study in contrasts.

The blades are crafted from our Wave Damascus (patents pending) featuring a core of ZDP-189 surrounded by 44 layers of alternating stainless alloys. The 45 layers combine together to create a blade that is very sharp, exceptionally strong, and of incomparable beauty.

The handles are built from hand-selected cocobolo wood hand-finished to a beautiful luster. They join sculptural stainless steel bolsters that feature hidden weight reduction pockets for heft and balance.

Each knife features our engraved logo, a unique serial number, and a certificate of authenticity.

Although if you have the money to drop on the Maestro you could probably also afford a hand made set of cutlery from a professional Bladesmith. There would be a number of differences, not the least of which is the chance to own a one-of-a-kind, hand-crafted, highly customized and signed set made by a famous Master.

If you are interested in acquiring an heirloom quality set of knives you may contact me, and for a fee I’ll help design and either construct the set or introduce you to one of the Master Bladesmiths I trained under.

Please be aware that the cost will be more than those William Henrys and the wait could be 6 months for a hand forged matched set. But hey, if price is truly not the issue then is there really any option?

None Found

Here is an interesting video which demonstrates many of the inventions from ancient India including things such as the number 0, cotton, art, and more. In fact, about 37 minutes into the video, they discuss the manufacture of Wootz – or Damascus – steel, used for making the finest swords ever created.

None Found

Those of you who know me are aware that I am also a Bladesmith and I studied under four separate American Bladesmith Society Master Bladesmiths, Joe Flournoy, Mike Williams, James Cook and Steve Dunn.

Among my courses of study, Damascus production was the toughest. There are only a few hundred people on the planet that can make this stuff, and once you make a billet of it you still need to be able to turn it into an actual finished blade and then a completed knife.

For those of you that are not completely familiar with what we’re talking about, Damascene (or Damascus) steel is an advanced form of blacksmithing, developed over 1,500 years ago, recognizable by a distinctive pattern on the metal surface. The look comes from stratified layers of steel with varying compositions that have been etched to reveal distinctive swirl patterns of light-colored regions on nearly black backgrounds. Damascene, which has always been rare, went through three golden ages before it became a lost art.

In the early Iron ages military armorers discovered that certain materials could be mixed with iron to make it harder or tougher. Hard metals would hold an edge easily, but shatter on impact. Tough metals would flex to avoid breakage, but would not retain a sharp cutting edge. It was discovered that by blending hard and soft metals together a blade could be created which had superior cutting and piercing capabilities, yet could easily flex during battle. For this reason damascene patterned blades became revered by kings and feared by enemies.

Because of the inherent strength of pattern welded Damascus steel, and the fact that nations rose and fell based upon the technology of their weapons, the method of manufacture was a secret closely guarded by Bladesmiths. Over time; however, the smiths who knew about the technique died out without passing it on to their apprentices.

Today, it is estimated that only a few hundred people retain the knowledge to produce Damascus steel; for this reason most people will never hear of, much less see a work of art containing forged Damascene.

Here now, is Daniel’s excellent video. Keep in mind that the narrator is Swiss so there is a bit of an accent. If you have questions about this process feel free to drop a comment and I’ll answer them.

None Found

After physically constructing the cutting table, I needed to do a little wiring in my Hypertherm PowerMax 1000 plasma torch so that it would interface with the control box of the PlasmaCAM in order to allow the machine to turn the torch on and off. The instruction video had me really worried because it kept talking about needing to have a professional electrician install the wiring and then perform a huge batch of tests in order to ensure everything was OK.

But when it finally came to the portion of the video that deals with my plasma cutter, the instruction was all of about 10 seconds in length. This is not because the topic was not covered well, but rather because the simplicity of the install did not require more. In about 5 minutes the plasma cutter was wired up, and I summarily mounted it into the holder on the PlasmaCAM to prepare it for test cutting.

My final task, after wiring and mounting the plasma torch, was to provision a dedicated PC to handle all of the computer control functions of the system. I purchased a brand new PC to dedicate to the PCAM.

I systematically deleted all the pre-installed crap (AOL, MS Office trial, MS Works, etc.) using the Add/Remove Programs that came pre-loaded on the machine. I then installed a firewall, anti-virus software and a Linksys wireless NIC. Finally I installed the PlasmaCAM software.

Now, all of this went very smoothly with the exception of one little thing. Although the PlasmaCAM software instructed me to log into my computer’s BIOS and set the parallel port to EPP 1.9, that particular setting did not work for me. A quick call to the tech support line, however, and George had me switch the setting to SPP and everything began working immediately.

After spending a little time setting up and tweaking the machine’s settings, I was able to make a very nice cutout after only the 3rd try. I consider this quite a testament to the simplicity of the use of this machine. I had anticipated a much longer learning curve, but it seems that I’m already able to use the machine, so my loyal art fans out there will start seeing photos of new art designs I have in the works very soon!

Edit: I also added a review of the PlasmaCAM sales video which many people have found useful for separating fact from fiction.

None Found

After comparing a wide variety of machines including DynaCNC, PlasmaCAM, Practical CNC, TorchMate, Dynatorch, and MultiCam, I settled on the PlasmaCAM for the following reasons:

• The machine breaks down and ships in a container approximately 5′ x 2′ x 2′. Although it weighs 380 lbs, they shipped it to a Dallas distribution center from Denver for under $250. It arrived in less than 48 hours and I took my trailer to the distribution facility where they loaded it for me. Once home, I was able to uncrate it and move the parts into my garage for assembly by myself.
  
• PlasmaCAM is the 900lb Gorilla in the “hobby” CNC plasma cutting market. They have a huge installed user base, and there are many people who are quite active on the Yahoo groups PlasmaCAM Users Group and PlasmaCAM Technical Forum.
  
• The control software is supposed to be some of the easiest around to use. And although I’m an expert users the last thing I want is another software learning curve.
• The machine will work perfectly with my Hypertherm 1000 plasma cutter with the handheld torch.

There are a few drawbacks.

• This machine is not as big as I’d like. But then again, some of the larger machines weigh over 700lbs and their shipping weight is 1600 lbs. Rather difficult to move without a forklift handy.
• This machine does not natively support a routing head, which I would have really liked to have.

Still, I intend to work this beast like crazy and already have designs I’ve been waiting for a year to cut.

Here is the initial table setup process in a nutshell. First I must say that the setup DVD that comes with the machine is possibly the best instruction manual I’ve ever encountered. I took my laptop to the garage and watched the DVD as I completed the install. It took me a total of 3 hours from crate to completion, and I did it by myself in 100 degree heat.

The crating was amazingly efficient and extremely solid. They thought of everything! They even used different colored screws so that you could easily tell which ones to unscrew while uncrating. Now, the video talked about how to uncrate the machine, but it was packed in the crate so by the time you see that you’ve probably already taken everything out. No matter, it was very intuitive.


The video walked you through every step of the assembly.

1. First, you build the frame which holds the material support slats.
2. Then you loosely bolt on the legs and flip the table over.
3. The material support slats are then inserted into the table frame.
4. The video instructs you how, and which bolts to tighten as you begin to firm things up.
5. Next the gantry rails go on, and the gantry slide into the rails and is bolted in place.
6. The cable swing arm is installed (which will keep the cables out of the cutting heads way)
7. Then the torch head holder connects to the gantry.
8. Finally, everything is tightened up and checked for clearances.

My machine went together very smoothly and easily (keeping in mind that I am a skilled worker). In fact, it was much better than I expected.

Now, I’m not done yet. Next I have to build a computer and a mobile stand so that I can move my PC which will control the machine in between my office and the garage. After the PlasmaCAM PC is ready, I’ll hook it to the machine and run through some sort of set up diagnostics… and then I need to do some special wiring to hook up this machine to my Plasma Torch so that the machine can tell it when to turn on and off.

Stay tuned to see how things go as the saga continues. And don’t worry; once the machine is fully operational I’ll be posting demonstration videos of it in all it’s glory. (I feel like the emperor talking about the completion of the Death Star!)

Edit: I also added a review of the PlasmaCAM sales video which many people have found useful for seperating fact from fiction.

None Found